Free showing checklist

What to check when touring a home

A fast, buyer-friendly set of visible observations for a showing. Use it to compare homes and prepare questions—not to decide that a home is safe or skip a licensed inspection.

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Exterior

4 inspection items

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Slope/grading

Does the ground slope away from the foundation?

Look for

  • Flat or negative slope toward the house
  • Low spots pooling near foundation

Why it matters: Improper grading is one of the most common contributors to basement and crawlspace moisture.

Drainage features

Are drainage features (swales, drains) functioning?

Look for

  • Clogged area drains
  • Damaged swale
  • Erosion channels visible

Why it matters: Functioning drainage features protect the foundation from water accumulation over time.

Drainage away from foundation

Does the ground slope away from the house, with no pooling against the foundation?

Look for

  • Ground flat or sloping back toward the foundation
  • Water staining, erosion, or pooling along the base of the wall
  • Flower beds or patios that trap water against the house

Why it matters: Soil that carries water away from the foundation is one of the biggest factors in a dry, stable house. Low spots or a reverse slope against the wall are worth flagging before the next heavy rain.

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Visible damage

Is the visible foundation free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Large cracks
  • Spalling or crumbling concrete
  • Exposed rebar

Why it matters: Visible structural damage should be flagged for a specialist rather than assessed further by the app.

Settling/movement

Any signs of shifting or settling?

Look for

  • Diagonal cracking
  • Doors/windows that no longer fit their frames nearby
  • Uneven or sloping sections

Why it matters: Movement patterns help a structural engineer judge whether an issue is cosmetic or ongoing. Cracks that line up with sticking doors, sloping floors, or settling in the walkway or driveway are worth mentioning together, not as separate one-off notes.

Moisture/pest evidence

Any signs of water intrusion or pest activity?

Look for

  • Efflorescence (white mineral deposits)
  • Wood-destroying insect evidence
  • Standing water nearby

Why it matters: Foundations are a common entry point for both water and pests, so this is worth flagging even if subtle.

Grade & weep clearance

Is there a visible gap between the siding and the soil, with brick weep holes and the slab edge not buried?

Look for

  • Soil, mulch, or paving stacked up against the siding or slab
  • Weep holes in brick buried below grade
  • Less than a few inches of exposed foundation between the grade and the siding

Why it matters: Keeping soil a few inches below the siding and the weep holes clear lets the wall drain and dry and keeps moisture and pests out of the structure. Grade piled against the wall is a common, correctable cause of hidden moisture damage — worth a foundation pro's eye.

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Condition

What's the overall condition of the exterior walls?

Look for

  • Cracking
  • Peeling or bubbling finish
  • Significant wear or staining

Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.

Damage

Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?

Look for

  • Holes or punctures
  • Structural (stair-step) cracking
  • Bowing or bulging

Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear.

Ground & roof clearance

Do the exterior walls keep a gap from the ground, roof line, and hard surfaces?

Look for

  • Wall material touching or within a couple inches of soil
  • Wall material touching the roof surface
  • Wall material sitting directly on a patio or driveway

Why it matters: Manufacturers generally call for a visible gap here (commonly a few inches from soil, and a couple inches from roofing and hard surfaces). Not keeping that gap can invite moisture and pest problems over time.

Openings & penetrations

Are gaps around pipes, vents, or other openings sealed?

Look for

  • Visible gap around a pipe or line
  • Unsealed opening near a vent or fixture

Why it matters: An unsealed opening is a small, inexpensive fix now — and a path for water, insects, or rodents if left alone.

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Condition

Is the exterior door free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Cracked or split panels
  • Rust or corrosion
  • Rot at the base
  • Sagging or misalignment

Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.

Operation

Does the exterior door open, close, and latch properly?

Look for

  • Sticks or binds
  • Fails to latch
  • Excessive force needed
  • Uneven gap around frame

Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.

Hardware & weatherseal

Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?

Look for

  • Loose or missing hinges
  • Non-functioning lock
  • Worn or missing weatherstripping

Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.

Garage

2 inspection items

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Material condition

What should I look for?

Look for

  • Cracked panels
  • Rust
  • Rot
  • Delamination
  • Broken hinges
  • Large gaps
  • Water damage

Why it matters: Damaged panels compromise insulation and security. Rot or rust can spread and lead to costly full-door replacement.

Opener function

Does the opener raise and lower smoothly?

Look for

  • Jerky movement
  • Unusual noise
  • Fails to fully close
  • Remote lag

Why it matters: A malfunctioning opener is a common repair item and can indicate worn gears or a failing motor.

Auto-reverse safety

Does the door reverse when it meets resistance?

Look for

  • No reversal on contact
  • Delayed reversal
  • Inconsistent behavior

Why it matters: Auto-reverse is a critical safety feature. A failure here is a safety hazard, especially for households with kids or pets.

Weatherstripping

Is the seal intact along the bottom and sides?

Look for

  • Cracked rubber
  • Gaps letting in light
  • Missing sections

Why it matters: Worn weatherstripping lets in pests, water, and drafts, raising energy costs.

Manual release

Does the emergency release cord work?

Look for

  • Frayed cord
  • Release does not disengage
  • Missing handle

Why it matters: The manual release is your fallback during a power outage or opener failure.

Tracks & rollers

Are the tracks straight and rollers intact?

Look for

  • Bent track
  • Worn or cracked rollers
  • Loose brackets

Why it matters: Bent tracks or worn rollers cause premature door and opener wear.

Springs/cables

Are the springs and cables free of damage?

Look for

  • Visible rust
  • Frayed cable
  • Gap in a torsion spring
  • Loose or missing stabilizer bar

Why it matters: Springs and cables are under very high tension and are a well-documented serious injury hazard — this is one to flag for a professional, not adjust yourself.

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Condition

Is the garage entry door free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Cracked or split panels
  • Rust or corrosion
  • Rot at the base
  • Sagging or misalignment

Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.

Self-closing hinge

Does the door close and latch on its own, without being pushed?

Look for

  • Door stays open on its own
  • Closes but doesn't latch
  • Hinge missing or disconnected

Why it matters: This door is meant to slow fire and fumes from spreading from the garage into the home, so it's built to close itself. If it doesn't, that's worth asking about.

Penetrations

Does the door have a pet door or other cut-in opening?

Look for

  • Pet door installed
  • Any other opening cut into the door

Why it matters: A cut-in opening can work against what this door is designed to do. Worth asking whether it was added after the door was installed.

Hardware & weatherseal

Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?

Look for

  • Loose or missing hinges
  • Non-functioning lock
  • Worn or missing weatherstripping

Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger issues if ignored.

Interior

5 inspection items

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Condition

What's the overall condition of the ceiling?

Look for

  • Cracking
  • Peeling or bubbling finish
  • Significant wear or staining

Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.

Damage

Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?

Look for

  • Holes or punctures
  • Structural (stair-step) cracking
  • Bowing or bulging

Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.

Moisture evidence

Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?

Look for

  • Water stains
  • Musty odor nearby
  • Soft or spongy areas to the touch

Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.

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Condition

Are floors free of significant damage?

Look for

  • Cracked or lifting tile/flooring
  • Deep scratches or gouges
  • Buckling or warping

Why it matters: Flooring damage patterns can sometimes point to moisture issues underneath.

Levelness

Do floors feel level and solid underfoot?

Look for

  • Noticeable slope
  • Soft or bouncy spots
  • Squeaking beyond normal wear

Why it matters: Sloping or soft floors can indicate structural settling or subfloor damage worth a closer look — especially if it lines up with anything you noticed about the foundation.

Moisture evidence

Any signs of past or current moisture?

Look for

  • Cupping or staining
  • Musty odor
  • Discoloration near walls

Why it matters: Flooring is often where hidden moisture problems become visible first.

Squeaks & soft spots

As you walk the floors, are they solid underfoot — no soft, springy, or bouncy spots?

Look for

  • Soft, springy, or bouncy feel underfoot (often near tubs, toilets, or exterior walls)
  • Loud squeaks or movement between the floor and the subfloor
  • Tile grout lines cracking along a line

Why it matters: A soft or bouncy spot usually means the subfloor below has been weakened — commonly by a slow leak. Walking the floors and noting where they give is a simple check that points a pro to a hidden problem.

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Condition

Is the interior door free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Cracked or split panels
  • Rust or corrosion
  • Rot at the base
  • Sagging or misalignment

Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.

Operation

Does the interior door open, close, and latch properly?

Look for

  • Sticks or binds
  • Fails to latch
  • Excessive force needed
  • Uneven gap around frame

Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.

Hardware & weatherseal

Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?

Look for

  • Loose or missing hinges
  • Non-functioning lock
  • Worn or missing weatherstripping

Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.

View every guided check

Condition

Is the window free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Cracked or fogged glass
  • Rotted or damaged frame
  • Peeling paint/finish

Why it matters: Fogged glass usually means a failed seal between panes, which only gets worse over time.

Operation

Does it open, close, and lock properly?

Look for

  • Painted shut
  • Difficult to open/close
  • Lock doesn't engage
  • Missing screens

Why it matters: Operable windows matter for everyday use, but in a bedroom they also matter for getting out during an emergency. A painted-shut or barred bedroom window with no quick-release is worth flagging clearly, not just noting as a maintenance item.

Seals & glazing

Are the seals and caulking intact?

Look for

  • Cracked caulking
  • Gaps letting in air or light
  • Water staining on sill

Why it matters: Failed seals are a leading cause of water intrusion and energy loss around openings.

Safety glazing (if applicable)

Is this window within 18" of the floor, near a door, or near a tub/shower?

Look for

  • Within 18 inches of the floor
  • Within 24-inch arc of a door
  • Adjacent to a tub or shower

Why it matters: Certain locations require tempered (safety) glass so it breaks into small, dull pieces instead of sharp shards if broken. Worth asking whether this pane is safety-rated if it's in one of these spots.

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Condition

Are cabinets free of significant damage?

Look for

  • Water damage at the base
  • Delaminating veneer
  • Broken hinges or drawer slides

Why it matters: Water damage at the cabinet base often indicates a past or current plumbing leak nearby — this is exactly the kind of hidden leak that can go unnoticed longer than a visible drip, so it's worth a closer look at the plumbing underneath.

Function

Do doors and drawers open and close properly?

Look for

  • Misaligned doors
  • Drawers that stick
  • Missing hardware

Why it matters: Function issues are usually minor, but worth noting for a buyer's overall impression of the kitchen.

Mounting & water damage

Are the upper cabinets solidly attached to the wall, with no water damage under the sink?

Look for

  • Upper cabinet pulling away from the wall or sagging
  • Soft, swollen, or stained cabinet floor under the sink
  • Loose or missing screws at the back mounting rail

Why it matters: Loaded upper cabinets carry real weight, and the base cabinet under the sink is the first place a slow plumbing leak shows up. Both are easy to see and worth flagging early.

Attic

1 inspection items

Attic access-opening observation only. Stay on a stable finished surface. Never enter, crawl, or step on joists or insulation during this buyer pre-screen.
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Sagging

Does the decking appear straight, without sagging?

Look for

  • Visible sag between rafters
  • Sagging visible from a stable access opening — do not step into the attic

Why it matters: Sagging decking can indicate long-term water damage or structural overloading.

Staining/rot

Any staining or signs of rot on the underside?

Look for

  • Dark water staining
  • Soft or crumbling wood
  • Active drips
  • Daylight visible through the roof deck

Why it matters: Staining on the decking is often the earliest visible sign of a roof leak from above. Seeing daylight through the deck is about as clear a sign as there is — the same gap that lets light in can also let water and pests in.

Nail pops

Are there visible nail pops or protrusions?

Look for

  • Multiple nail pops
  • Nails visibly backing out

Why it matters: Nail pops are usually cosmetic but can eventually work through the roofing material above.

Daylight & gaps

From a safe attic-access opening, do you see any daylight or gaps through the roof decking?

Look for

  • Daylight showing through the decking or at a penetration
  • Gaps, holes, or missing sections of sheathing
  • Wet or darkened decking around a nail or vent

Why it matters: Daylight coming through the decking means an open path for water and a likely active leak — one of the clearest signs to have a roofer look before the next rain. Record what's visible from the opening, and do not step into the attic.

Roof

2 inspection items

Ground-only roof observation. Never climb onto a roof or ladder. Use a safe ground-level view only; otherwise leave the item unchecked and ask a licensed inspector.
View every guided check

Material condition

What condition is the roof covering in overall, and what type is it?

Look for

  • Curling or cupping
  • Cracked or brittle material
  • Moss or algae growth
  • Note the roof type: asphalt shingle, tile, metal, wood shake, or flat/low-slope

Why it matters: Material condition is the clearest indicator of how much service life the roof has left, and different roof types age and fail in different ways — noting the type helps set expectations.

Granule loss/wear

Any significant granule loss (for shingles)?

Look for

  • Bald spots
  • Excessive granules in gutters
  • Visible substrate showing through

Why it matters: Granule loss accelerates aging and reduces the roof's protection from UV and water.

Missing/damaged sections

Any missing, lifted, or damaged sections?

Look for

  • Missing shingles/tiles
  • Lifted edges
  • Visible patch repairs

Why it matters: Missing or lifted sections are active entry points for water and should be addressed promptly. A crack near a tile corner alone is common on tile roofs and usually not a concern by itself — it's multiple cracks, or cracks combined with other issues, that's worth a closer look.

Layers/installation

Does the installation look proper (single layer, etc.)?

Look for

  • Multiple layers visible at edges
  • Improper flashing integration
  • Sagging ridge line

Why it matters: Multiple roofing layers can hide problems and affect how repairs or replacement are priced.

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Visible damage

Is the overall roof structure free of visible damage?

Look for

  • Sagging or uneven ridge line
  • A roof plane that visibly dips or waves
  • Damaged or displaced framing visible only from a safe attic opening

Why it matters: Visible sagging or deflection can reflect damaged decking, framing, prolonged moisture, or overloading. Record the view and route it to a licensed inspector rather than trying to diagnose the cause.

Deflection or movement

From a safe ground-level view, does any roof section look deflected, shifted, or out of plane?

Look for

  • Localized dip between supports
  • Ridge or eave line no longer straight
  • Recent-looking change paired with storm damage

Why it matters: A roof shape that is visibly out of plane deserves professional evaluation. Ground-level observation cannot establish whether the cause is cosmetic, structural, or active.

Storm or water indicators

Are there visible exterior signs of storm impact or a path where water could enter?

Look for

  • Missing, lifted, or displaced roof covering
  • Bent or damaged flashing at edges and penetrations
  • Water staining visible at an eave or safe attic opening

Why it matters: Storm damage and displaced flashing can create hidden leak paths. A safe buyer pre-screen can document the indicator, but a licensed inspector should determine extent and next steps.

Systems

4 inspection items

View every guided check

Age/data plate & refrigerant type

Can you locate and read the unit's data plate?

Look for

  • No visible data plate
  • Unit appears past typical 12-15 year lifespan
  • Uses older R-22 refrigerant

Why it matters: Age strongly predicts both efficiency and remaining service life. Older R-22 systems are worth noting too — that refrigerant is being phased out, so service and recharges have gotten more expensive over time even on a unit that's otherwise fine.

Refrigerant lines/insulation

Is the insulation on refrigerant lines intact?

Look for

  • Missing or deteriorated insulation
  • Visible oily residue (possible leak)
  • Kinked lines

Why it matters: Damaged line insulation reduces efficiency; oily residue can indicate a refrigerant leak.

Condensate drainage

Is condensate draining properly?

Look for

  • Standing water in drain pan
  • Rusted-through or undersized drain pan
  • Disconnected drain line
  • Signs of past overflow/staining

Why it matters: A failed condensate system causes the same kind of ceiling or wall staining as a roof leak, just from indoor equipment instead — worth connecting the dots if you've noticed a ceiling stain nearby.

Airflow at vents

Is airflow consistent across the vents you can check?

Look for

  • Weak airflow
  • No airflow at some vents
  • Unusual noise from the unit
  • A supply/return register located inside the garage

Why it matters: Inconsistent airflow can point to duct issues or a failing blower motor. A register inside the garage is also worth a second look — it can potentially draw exhaust or stored fumes into the home's air.

Breaker sizing vs. data plate

Photograph the unit's data plate — does the panel breaker match the 'Max Fuse/Breaker' size it lists?

Look for

  • Panel breaker rated higher than the data plate's Maximum Fuse/Breaker (Max Overcurrent Protection) number
  • Data plate missing, painted over, or unreadable — photograph whatever is legible
  • Can't tell which breaker feeds the HVAC, or it isn't labeled — read the amperage off the breaker's switch, don't remove the panel cover

Why it matters: The outdoor unit's data plate lists the largest breaker or fuse the manufacturer built the equipment and its wiring to handle (labeled 'Maximum Fuse/Breaker' or 'Max Overcurrent Protection'). A breaker rated above that number won't trip when it should, so the circuit isn't protected to the manufacturer's specification. You can read the breaker's amperage right off its switch with the panel cover on and compare it to the plate — a photo of the data plate makes the comparison easy and gives a licensed electrician or HVAC pro exactly what they need to correct a mismatch.

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Panel condition

Without opening or removing any panel cover, is the outside of the electrical panel free of visible hazards?

Look for

  • Rust or water staining on or below the cabinet
  • Scorching or melted material visible from outside
  • A missing cover or blank filler that already leaves an opening
  • Buzzing, crackling, unusual heat, or a burning odor — do not touch

Why it matters: Rust, scorching, heat, unusual sounds, or an existing opening can signal an electrical hazard. Never remove the deadfront or reach inside; internal wiring belongs to a licensed professional.

Location & clearance

Is the panel somewhere reasonable, with clear space in front of it?

Look for

  • Panel located in a bathroom
  • Blocked by storage or furniture
  • No clear walking space in front of it

Why it matters: Panels aren't allowed in bathrooms, and they need clear space in front so they can be worked on safely in an emergency.

Grounding & bonding

Is there a visible ground rod or bonding connection?

Look for

  • No visible ground rod
  • Ground/bond wire loose or disconnected
  • No visible bond to metal water or gas piping

Why it matters: Grounding and bonding give an electrical fault a safe path to trip a breaker instead of energizing something a person could touch — it's foundational to the whole system's safety.

Breaker labeling

Without removing any panel cover, is the circuit directory visible and legible?

Look for

  • Missing labels
  • Breakers not clearly labeled
  • Do not operate breakers to verify labels during this pre-screen

Why it matters: A readable circuit directory helps in an emergency. Confirming whether every label is accurate requires controlled testing and belongs to a qualified professional.

Visible panel age & identity

From exterior labels and branding only, can you identify the panel without opening or removing a cover?

Look for

  • Manufacturer or model label missing or illegible
  • Federal Pacific or Zinsco branding
  • Obvious exterior rust, damage, or modification
  • Do not remove the deadfront to inspect wiring or capacity

Why it matters: Brand, age, service capacity, and wiring type can affect risk, but most of that evaluation is inside an energized enclosure. Record only exterior identifiers and leave internal evaluation to a licensed electrician.

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Age/data plate

Can you locate and read the data plate?

Look for

  • No visible data plate
  • Unit appears past typical 8-12 year lifespan
  • Undersized for the home

Why it matters: Water heater age is one of the single best predictors of near-term replacement need.

Leaks/corrosion

Any signs of leaking or corrosion at the tank or fittings?

Look for

  • Rust at the base
  • Moisture pooling underneath
  • Corroded fittings

Why it matters: A leaking water heater can fail suddenly and cause significant water damage.

TPR valve & discharge pipe

Is the temperature/pressure relief valve properly piped?

Look for

  • Missing discharge pipe
  • Discharge pipe terminates incorrectly
  • Valve shows signs of leaking

Why it matters: The TPR valve is a critical safety device that prevents dangerous pressure buildup.

Expansion tank

Is there a small expansion tank on the cold supply line?

Look for

  • No expansion tank present
  • Expansion tank waterlogged (feels heavy, no give when pressed)

Why it matters: An expansion tank absorbs pressure created as water heats up. Without one, that pressure has nowhere to go, which can shorten the life of the tank and its fittings.

Venting (if gas)

Is the vent connected and properly pitched?

Look for

  • Disconnected vent
  • Incorrect pitch/slope
  • Signs of backdrafting (soot/staining)

Why it matters: Improper venting on a gas unit can allow combustion gases to enter the living space. If you smell gas at any point, stop, leave the area, and don't operate any switches — call the gas utility or emergency services from outside.

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Condition

Is the refrigerator free of visible damage and door-seal issues?

Look for

  • Torn or loose door gaskets
  • Dented or rusted exterior
  • Water pooling underneath

Why it matters: Door seals and any water underneath are common, easy-to-check signs of wear.

Operation

Is it running and cold in both the fridge and freezer?

Look for

  • Not powered / not cooling
  • Freezer not frozen
  • Excessive frost or loud noise

Why it matters: Confirming it cools is a quick check; if the fridge isn't conveyed with the sale, note that instead.

Water line & ice maker

If it has an ice maker or water dispenser, is the supply line and its valve dry?

Look for

  • Leaking shutoff valve behind the fridge
  • Water line fitting dripping or corroded
  • Water staining on the floor or cabinet behind/under the fridge
  • Kinked or damaged supply line

Why it matters: The small valve and line feeding an ice maker are a common source of slow leaks that damage floors and cabinets before anyone notices. Check behind the fridge if you can reach it safely; a plumber can replace a weeping valve.

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YouInspect™ is buyer education and property pre-screening. It is not a licensed home inspection, does not determine that a property is safe, and does not replace an inspection by a licensed inspector. Patent Pending.